Beach cusps: two explanations
General science, look for it hereWaves, rhythm and timingFixed and variable counts
Beach cusps are a row of evenly spaced sand points with scoops between them at the top of the swash, usually 1 to 50 m apart; wider swash gives wider spacing. One theory says the swash builds them itself, a self-organizing pattern. An older one says waves trapped along the shore set the spacing. The two predict similar spacings, and a field test favoring self-organization still found ambiguous signs of the trapped waves, so neither is settled. Nobody has recorded cusps on this beach.
See it yourself: After a few days of steady swell, walk the upper beach at low tide and pace off horn to horn.
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Sand ripples: symmetric and lopsided
General science, look for it hereWaves, rhythm and timingMirror symmetry and asymmetry
Under waves, water moves back and forth, so both sides of a ripple are worked in turn and the ripple is symmetric, with long straight crests that sometimes fork. Where water flows one way, in a creek or lagoon outflow, ripples have a gentle up-current side and a steep down-current side, and the steep side points the way the water went. On dry sand, wind ripple spacing grows in step with wind speed.
See it yourself: Compare ripples in a creek-mouth channel with those in the open swash zone. On breezy afternoons, look above the high-tide line.
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Mud cracks: right angles first, hexagons later
General science, look for it hereTilings, mosaics and cracksAngles and geometry of motionHexagons and sixes
When mud dries for the first time, each new crack tends to meet an older one at a right angle, making rectangles. If the same mud is wetted and dried again and again, the cracks reopen in a different order and the junctions drift toward three cracks meeting at 120°, closer to hexagons. In the lab this took about four wet-dry cycles.
See it yourself: Look at dried mud in road ruts or a dry creek bed by day, well back from any water. Count junctions: mostly T means a fresh crack set, mostly Y means repeated wetting. Near the lagoon, crocodile rules apply.
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Why swell comes in sets
General science, look for it hereWaves, rhythm and timing
Swell is a mix of waves with slightly different periods. Where their crests line up, waves are bigger; where they cancel, there's a lull. Swell from far away has a narrow range of periods, so the grouping is strong. In deep water a group travels at half the speed of its crests, so waves appear at the back of a set, move through it and fade at the front. Grouped waves also make the water level at the shore rise and fall slowly over minutes, called surf beat. There is no fixed number of waves in a set; the "seventh wave" is folklore.
See it yourself: With a watch, count waves per set and the seconds between sets. Then mark the farthest swash with a stick for 10 minutes and watch it creep up and back.
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Wave period sets wavelength
General science, look for it hereWaves, rhythm and timingFlow and physics
In deep water a wave's speed and length depend only on its period: speed is about 1.56 × period (m/s) and wavelength about 1.56 × period² (m). A 10-second swell has crests about 156 m apart; a 14-second swell about 306 m; a 20-second swell about 624 m. Longer waves travel faster, which is why the long-period part of a distant swell arrives first.
See it yourself: When the forecast shows long-period swell, time the seconds between crests passing a fixed rock and multiply the square by 1.56 to get the wavelength in deep water offshore.
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Refraction: why the point peels
General science, look for it hereAngles and geometry of motionWaves, rhythm and timing
Waves travel slower in shallower water, so the part of a crest over shallow ground slows while the rest swings around it, and crests turn to line up with the depth contours. Wave energy converges on points and spreads in bays. A wave is surfable when it breaks progressively along its length; the peel angle is the angle between the trail of whitewater and the unbroken crest. If the bottom contours ran parallel to the crest, the whole wave would break at once, a closeout.
See it yourself: From high ground near the point, watch crests change direction as they wrap in. From the beach, follow one wave and note where the whitewater pauses and runs on.
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Spilling or barreling
General science, look for it hereAngles and geometry of motionFlow and physics
Whether a wave spills, plunges into a barrel or surges depends on the ratio of the seabed's slope to the wave's steepness, a number called the Iribarren (surf similarity) parameter. Gentle slopes and steep waves spill; steeper bottoms or longer, flatter swell plunge.
See it yourself: Watch from the side: a plunging wave throws its lip forward and leaves a tube of air.
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Rip currents are less regular than theory
General science, look for it hereFlow and physicsWaves, rhythm and timing
Rip currents form most often at low spots or gaps in sandbars and near structures. Theories predict regular spacing, but four years of daily images on one Australian beach found the spacing varied a lot and was not explained by simple models. This site holds no rip-current records for this beach.
See it yourself: Signs to look for from shore: a gap of darker, calmer-looking water between breaking waves, or foam moving out to sea.
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Foam lines on the water
General science, look for it hereWaves, rhythm and timingFlow and physics
When wind blows over water, the surface layer can organize into long rolls turning in opposite directions, called Langmuir circulation. Where neighboring rolls meet and sink, foam and floating debris gather in lines running roughly with the wind, from a meter or two to hundreds of meters apart.
See it yourself: Once the sea breeze is up, look offshore from high ground for faint foam streaks pointing into the wind.
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Foam: walls that meet at 120°
General science, look for it hereTilings, mosaics and cracksAngles and geometry of motionThrees
In foam that has drained, each bubble wall is a smooth film. Three walls always meet along an edge at equal 120° angles, and four edges meet at a point at about 109.5°. These are Plateau's laws, seen in the 1800s and proved by Jean Taylor in 1976. Fresh, wet sea foam has round bubbles; the polygons appear as it drains.
See it yourself: Look closely at sea foam stranded on the sand for a few minutes as round bubbles turn into many-sided cells.
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Splash crowns
General science, look for it hereWaves, rhythm and timingFixed and variable counts
A drop hitting a thin layer of water throws up a crown-shaped sheet whose rim breaks into evenly spaced points, each shedding a droplet, through a Rayleigh–Plateau instability. The studies used lab drops on thin films; rain on deep water mostly makes a crater and a jet instead. Most wet-season rain here falls in the evening and at night.
See it yourself: On a covered porch at night, light a puddle from the side and use a phone's slow-motion video.
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Lightning branches
General science, look for it hereBranching
A simple random model of electrical breakdown grows branching, fractal-like patterns, and real lightning looks fractal too. But there is no single fractal dimension of lightning: an earlier photo study gave about 1.3, and 3D mapping of one storm gave about 1.7.
See it yourself: Photograph distant storms at night from indoors; a long exposure shows the branching.
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Cloud cells and storm spirals
General science, look for it hereHexagons and sixesTilings, mosaics and cracksSpirals
Over parts of the open ocean, low cloud organizes into cells about 10 to 50 km across: cloudy centers with clear edges, or clear centers ringed by cloud. They resemble heated-fluid convection cells in a lab, though not exactly. Around a hurricane, rain organizes into a main band and smaller moving bands spiraling in toward the center.
See it yourself: Open a free daily satellite viewer and look at low cloud over the Pacific, or at a storm's radar loop, from indoors.
Sources (2)
Lagoon channels branch, but not like rivers
General science, look for it hereBranching
Tidal channels branch like trees, which invites comparison with river networks and fractals. Studies of tidal lagoons and marshes in Venice, San Francisco Bay and Massachusetts found tidal networks don't follow rivers' clean scaling: the pattern breaks between large and small channels and differs from place to place.
See it yourself: Look at the lagoon on a satellite map. In person, only from a safe distance in daylight.
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The wind clock
Measured by this siteWaves, rhythm and timing
Every night the land breeze blows off the hills. Every morning, a little after ten, the sea breeze switches it off and the beach goes onshore until dusk, regular enough to set a clock by.
See it yourself: Note the time the palm fronds turn onshore each morning.
Sources (1)
The tide clock
Measured by this siteWaves, rhythm and timing
At the nearest tide gauge, in Zihuatanejo, the twice-daily tide is mostly driven by the sun, so low tides keep clock time, at about 1–4 in the morning and 1–4 in the afternoon in every month, instead of drifting about 50 minutes later each day as on many coasts. This comes from the site's model of that gauge, 20–25 km away.
See it yourself: Check a week of the forecast tide curve: the low-tide times barely move.
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